Let’s shake things up a bit.
The tasting notes you’ll find in this article are not the tasting notes you might be used to hearing. Rather than the heavy, serious, pretentious words that are often associated with tasting notes and wine descriptions, I’d like to focus instead on some words that winemakers actually use when they’re talking about each other’s wines.
Words like “apple-y.”
And “crushable.”
And “smells like the crush deck during harvest.”
It’s cool to listen in on conversations like that.
That was the opportunity presented last week by the New York Wine & Grape Foundation, who pulled together four winemakers to talk about four examples of low-alcohol and no-alcohol wine options from around the state.
I was honored to moderate the conversation, which you can watch for yourself at any time. The panel of New York state winemakers included Colleen Hardy of Living Roots Wine & Co. in Rochester, Kim Marconi and Paige Vinson of Three Brothers Wineries & Estates in Geneva, and Roman Roth of Wölffer Estate in Sagaponack.
We discussed several of the most salient themes about the low-alcohol and no-alcohol movement, and how the wine industry is reacting (and embracing) the trend. Part One of this mini-series recaps that part of the conversation.
For Part Two, I’d like to share the ways they described each other’s contributions to the tasting. It was an unorthodox tasting that inspired unorthodox language, which was perfectly suited to the unorthodox segment of the wine industry that resonates increasingly with consumers.
Here were my takeaways, inspired by the language of the winemakers and trade guests to the tasting.
No. 139 LoRo Rosé Cider, from Wölffer Estate
The Specifics: $14 for four-pack SRP. 3.2 percent ABV (Alcohol By Volume). Made from a blend of hand-picked apples grown near Rochester: Ida Red (50 percent), Jonagold (20 percent), Crispin (10 percent), Greening (10 percent), Golden Delicious (10 percent)
The Language: Falls between a light rosé wine and a light cider. Shiny. Apple-y. More red fruit than golden apples. Lovely pale pink color. Very elegant and attractive. Ethereal acidity that makes it very food-friendly. Complex texture and mouthfeel, yet still refreshing. Low calories and low alcohol.
Mimosa Wine Spritzer, from Three Brothers Wineries & Estates
The Specifics: $12.99 for four-pack SRP. 5 percent ABV. Made from Grüner Veltliner in the Finger Lakes region
The Language: The mimosa flavor is there, but not from the cheap prosecco that most mimosas are made from. The quality is there too. There’s a wine-like feeling in the mouth. Flavors of orange and white pepper. Just because it’s a low-alcohol product doesn’t mean we have to sacrifice on the characteristics we love about the grape, like the beautiful aromatics of grüner.
Petite Rosé Verjus Spritzer, from Wölffer Estate
The Specifics: $4.50 SRP. Zero percent ABV. 100 percent Pinot Meunier
The Language: The winemakers smelled this wine and it immediately took them to the crush deck during harvest. They looked at each other and shared the same thought: Harvest is coming! The aroma is such an intense reflection of fresh-pressed grape juice. Berries. Refreshing. The length is also really nice, especially for something with zero alcohol.
2019 Session Red, from Living Roots Wine & Co.
The Specifics: $20 SRP. 10 percent ABV. Blend of grapes from the Finger Lakes: Geneva Red (60 percent), Cabernet Franc (8 percent), Merlot (8 percent), Blaüfrankisch (8 percent), Regent (8 percent), Petite Pearl (8 percent)
The Language: There’s a Beaujolais component to this wine, which is a helpful reference point for consumers. The wine is meant to be light and lively. It’s crushable, approachable, drinkable. It’s on the tarter side and the acidity makes it very food-friendly. Not heavy in tannins. Could drink at room temperature or chilled (especially nice). The Burgundy bottle already sends the message that it isn’t trying to be a big, fruit-forward wine.