Though it’s located a little outside of central Bangkok, on the Thonburi side of the city, one of my all time long standing Thai Isaan food restaurants in Bangkok is Som Tam Pu Maa (ส้มตำปูม้า). Before, I previously lived in the area, so I would eat there quite frequently, but since I don’t anymore, anytime I’m in the area I make a pitstop. For this particular meal, we ordered up a feast that included some of the best tasting dishes from this fine Isaan restaurant.
There’s both a downstairs and an upstairs to Som Tam Pu Maa (ส้มตำปูม้า), the upstairs only used when the downstairs is full, and there’s an air-con on the upstairs floor as well. All the cooking, like most common Thai restaurants, happens on the bottom floor at the entrance to the restaurant. We began things off with the pla pao (ปลาเผา), which is a roasted snake head fish. The fish is first stuffed with lemongrass, and then covered on the outside in salt before being roasted over charcoal. The result is an immaculate beauty where the fish stays moist on the inside and just slightly salty from the skin. The real bonus at Som Tam Pu Maa (ส้มตำปูม้า), and one of the reasons it’s one of the best Thai Isaan food restaurants in Bangkok, is their incredible sauces. The roasted chili sauce, which reminds me of Mexican chipotle, is particularly outstanding.
After the fish, I then took a bite of the Kaeng Om (แกงอ่อม), an extremely herbaceous and fresh soup made with lots of vegetables and herbs. Cooking on a high heat fire, the soup cooked extremely fast so all the vegetables were still crispy and flavorful and not overcooked. It’s another common Thai Isaan food dish. I’ve been a huge fan of larb pla duk (ลาบปลาดุก) ever since I came to Thailand, but few other Isaan restaurants debone the catfish body, and then re-attach the head to serve it. Everything is a trophy at Som Tam Pu Maa (ส้มตำปูม้า). The larb pla duk (ลาบปลาดุก) is extraordinary at this restaurant. They use just the right amount of spice and herbs to accentuate the smoky flavored fish. Another favorite of mine is the yam makua yao (ยำมะเขือยาว), which is a roasted eggplant salad that’s mixed with minced pork and boiled egg before being dressed in lime juice and fish sauce. Another winner! We did order a plate of som tam thai, but I won’t even get into that as it’s the most common Thai Isaan food dish available. We also ordered yam pla duk foo (ยำปลาดุกฟู), a fluffy deep fried catfish that’s served with a marvelous sour green mango sauce.
Anyway, the Thai Isaan food at Som Tam Pu Maa (ส้มตำปูม้า) is absolutely extraordinary!
Som Tam Boo Maa Restaurant
25/48 Thanon Charan Sanitwong, Bang Khun Non, Bangkok 10700
Tel. 0-2822-3577
Hours: 11:00 — 23:00
ส้มตำปูม้า
ที่อยู่ 25/48 ถนนบางขุนนนท์ บางกอกน้อย กรุงเทพฯ, บางขุนนนท์, 10700
โทร. 02-8823577
เปิดบริการทุกวัน 11.00 – 23.00 น.
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