When the 3-star Michelin Restaurant at Meadowood burned to the ground in Napa Valley during the 2020 Glass Fire, many wine and food lovers around the world were heartbroken. However, a new restaurant has emerged at Meadowood, called the Forum, which just opened its door in the last few months.
Given that the hotel and spa at Meadowood Resort was recently awarded 5 stars from Forbes Travel Guide 2023, it is only fitting that such a prestigious resort open a new restaurant. (A portion of the resort, including 35 rooms, was spared by the wildfires.)
However, during a 3-course dinner at Forum, when asked if they were aiming to achieve a Michelin star for the restaurant, Leslie MacKillop, Director of Sales & Marketing for Meadowood, told me they were taking things one step at a time.
“We are in an evolutionarily pattern,” she stated. “This is a journey. We are moving forward according to our owner, Bill Harlan’s, philosophy. He likes to measure twice and cut once.”
Harlan, founder of the legendary Harlan Estate Winery, as well as Bond and Promontory wineries, purchased Meadowood Resort in 1979. Under his guidance Meadowood expanded from its 1961 footprint, and rose to become one of the top luxury resorts in the U.S.
“Forum is our new dining option for visitors that complements our Terrace Café and in-room dining services and is open to the public,” continued MacKillop. “The space offers a relaxed atmosphere where guests can come together to break bread as we at Meadowood continue to build upon our legacy in the Napa Valley.”
The resort is still in the planning stages to rebuild the fire-damaged part of the property, including the Restaurant at Meadowood. MacKillop stated that they expected it to take 3 to 5 years.
Design, Atmosphere and Wine List at Meadowood’s Forum Restaurant
The design and décor at the new Forum restaurant is relaxed and approachable. Designed by renowned architect Howard Backen, the light and airy interior can seat up to 70 people, but can expand to encompass 150 people for a reception. Part of this is due to the large outdoor seating area with comfortable sofas and tables on an expansive patio. There is also a private dining room that can seat up to 20 diners.
The interiors, crafted by Lindsey Rion, are decorated in a soft dove grey with comfortable banquettes and soothing ash colored wood tables. Slate blue pillows and bouquets of seasonal flowers add an elegant and calming effect to the room. A large wooden bar dominates one wall, and serves wine by the glass and innovative cocktails.
“We serve lots of Champagne here,” stated Wine Director, Jillian Riley. “That is because many local winemakers come here, and after a long day of making cabernet sauvignon and other Napa Valley wines, they are looking for something different. Often times they want to refresh their palate with champagne, so I’ve stocked up on a lot of different champagnes, as well as other high acid light wines that can be equally refreshing.”
Riley said that the Forum wine list is currently around 300 wines. Approximately half of it is composed of local Napa Valley wines, but the other half features wines of the world, including some unusual varietals. “Local winemakers and guests enjoy trying something different sometimes,” she grinned.
Wine and Food Pairing Magic at Meadowood’s Forum Restaurant
After enjoying champagne and cocktails at the Forum bar, the ten people in my party were ushered into the private dining room where we were treated to a delicious 3-course dinner with innovative wine pairings.
Forum’s Executive Chef, Scot Livingston, formerly Chef De Cuisine at La Toque Restaurant in Napa, welcomed the guests and described his philosophy. “We try to source all of our ingredients locally, but occasionally I will bring in something special from outside, such as the white asparagus we are having this evening, which was imported from Holland.”
Meadowood has its own vegetable gardens from which Livingston sources. He is also known for his use of exotic spices paired with local food to create a delicious surprise for diners. An example is his much loved roasted Petaluma chicken from Sonoma, which is served in a roll and stuffed with almonds, preserved lemon and Moroccan spices.
Following is the 3-course menu Livingston prepared at Forum, paired with innovative wines by Wine Director, Jillian Riley.
First Course
- Green and White Asparagus with sunflower seeds, cumin, sesame and kaffir lime vinaigrette
- Paired with 2018 Robert Sinskey ‘Abraxas’ Riesling/Pinot Blanc blend, Carneros, CA
Second Course
- Roasted Petaluma Chicken with Moroccan spice, almonds, and preserved lemon; roasted carrots
- Paired with 2020 Raul Perez ‘Ultreia St. Jacques’ Mencia from Beierzo Spain
Third Course
- Dessert Trio of Café au Lait Crème Brulee, Rhubarb Tart, and Valrhona Caramelia Fudge
- Paired with Rare Wine Co. Historic Series Sercial Madeira, 2017 Sexton Vivier Pineau and Coffee
Though asparagus is considered to be one of the most challenging dishes to pair with wine, the bright acidity in the dry riesling/pinot blanc blend worked well, especially because of the unique touch of cumin the chef added to the asparagus, which brought out some spicy notes in the wine.
The wine pairing with the second course of roasted Petaluma chicken was brilliant. Though not that many people are familiar with the mencia grape from Spain, its markers of dark black cherry and earthiness with a touch of cassis (similar to a cabernet franc) lifted the chicken to new heights. The exotic Moroccan spices and the earthy black cherry of the high acid lighter body wine created magic on the palate and then blended together for a seamless finish.
The third course with the assortment of three different desserts served on a sharing platter were all delicious. Plus it is so much fun to be able to sample the different options. My favorite was the crème brulee, which had a touch of espresso and vanilla bean. The burnt edges of the crème brûlée paired beautifully with the burnt toffee flavors in the Serial Madeira – making both taste much more exquisite together.
The rhubarb tart when tasted on its own was good, but when combined with the sweet rosé made from the pineau grape really popped on the palate. The third desert was a very unusual chocolate fudge, which looked like a gray stone on the plate and was decorated with raspberries, flowers, and tiny meringue puffs (see photo below). It was made from Valrhona chocolate fudge, and was a perfect conclusion with the coffee.